BANDHEJ, DANKA AND KASIDA WORK OF UDAIPUR

             Known all over the world is Lake City for its scenic beauty, palaces, Havelis, museums and the like. The town has its identity also as a producer of Bandhej that has exquisite designs and eye pleasing colour combination.

       The Bandhej, tie and dye, workers called Rangrej, Chadwar, Chhipa and the like residing in areas such as Jadion  ki ol, Kol pol, Ahad, Dhaibhai ki pol and Mochiwada are known to work wonders with cloth and colours of various shades. Parts of thin cloth are separated by tieing them with thin thread and dying them in different colours. Some of the varieties of Bandhej are Dabbidaar, Bed-daar, Mothda and Chundi. The print with five colours is called Panchranga.

              Lehariya has thin lines of different colours that are not straight. The Dabbi-daar variety has one square inside another that have different colours. Bed-daar has separate squares or rectangles with different colours. Some have dots and others lines. Lehriya is sent by parents to their daughter on the first Teej after her marriage. In one folk song, a lady says that high are the palaces of the kings and below are shops of Rangrej and asks the dyer to make a Lahariya with sea waves. In another song a lady asks her dear one to buy her a Lahariya costing 900 rupees from the market in Udaipur.

             During the monsoon months of Sawan and Bhadon, people prefer Rajshahi, Dhanak, Mothda and Dungarshahi Lahariyas. As also Bhupalshahi Lahariya that is named after Maharana Bhupalsingh during whose reign this variety became very popular.

       Turbans with Mothada that have prints of dots are very popular and have been worn by celebrities on special occasions.

        Piliya that has kite like figures in different colours and Laddus in the middle are sent by parents to their daughter when she performs Suraj Pooja after the birth of a child.

       On the occasion of marriage, Mama Chunad is given by Mama for the bride and Baduli by her parent-in-law.

              Udaipur is also famous for Danka work. Danka is a thin square star made of silver on which gold polish is done. This work is done usually on silk, satin, and chiffon with which are made saris and Marwari Gaghra- choli. This kind of work is also called Darbari Kaam as during State times only royal and rich families were able to afford it but now it is also being liked by other classes. On different festivals such dresses  are also made for idols in the temples. Designs of creepers, lotus, flower bunches, geometrical figures etc. are made.

     Danka clothes are in demand from distant places like Delhi, Mumbai, Jaipur, Chennai in addition to Bhilwara, Chittor etc. They are also liked by Indians residing in Britain, USA, Germany, Gulf Countries etc. This work is done mainly by workers residing in Boharwadi and ready made stars are taken from there to other places in the town.

      Embroidery, Kasida work, for which Udaipur is also famous is done mainly by Muslim male and female workers in Boharwadi and Rehman colony near Shastri Circle. It is done on Saris, Rajasthani wear, Salwar-suit, Burkas etc. for which silk, satin and chiffon are used. The customers are mainly Bohra and Muslim ladies.

                Bandhej, Danka and embroidery work not only make dresses colourful and attractive but also makes fascinating gifts.